Step 1: Prepare the Surface
Repair, patch, and level any damaged or uneven areas. Double-check to make sure the
area free of wax, soap scum, and grease.
Remove any moldings, trim, or appliances that may interfere with tile application and
check the doorjambs to make sure the tile has clearance when installed beneath.
Step 2: Begin Layout
Marking the center point of each of the walls in the room. Then, snap chalk lines
between the center points of opposite walls to pinpoint the center of the room and
adjusting areas to create perfect squares.
Step 3: Apply Cement
As a general rule of thumb, only mix enough amount to be used within 30 minutes.
Using the flat side of the trowel type recommended on the package, spread a 1/4" coat
on the surface of one grid area without covering the guidelines.
Then, hold the trowel at a 45-degree angle and use the notched side to comb cement into
standing points. When removing the excess cement, leave behind a uniform, ridged
setting base for the tile. As another rule of thumb, never spread a larger area of your
cement than can be set in 15 minutes.
Stick to the script and facilitate the tile installation with the perfect cement base.
Step 4: Cut Tile
Measure the tiles that needed to be cut a pencil or felt-tip pen on the tile surface. We use
a tile cutter to achieve pinpoint straight or diagonal cuts. Make masterful curved cuts
with a nipper, chipping away small pieces for the best look.
For any full-length curved cuts, a rod saw is most properly suited to handle the task.
After cutting, smooth out any sharp edges with a carborundum stone to get a perfect
look for the tiles.
Step 5: Set the Tile
Start with installing tiles in the center of the room, one grid at a time, finishing each grid
before moving on to the next. Start the first tile in the corner within each grid then work
Using a slight twisting motion, set tiles one at a time and avoid sliding them into place.
Make sure to either insert spacers between each tile or leave equal joints between tiles.
Save the perimeter tiles in each grid for last, leaving a 1/4 th inch gap between the tile and
wall. Once a grid is completely installed, we use a rubber mallet or hammer to tap in the
tiles and wood block to ensure a solid bond and level plane.
Lastly, we remove excess cement from joints with a putty knife and from tile with a
damp sponge to prevent an uneven surface. And wait for 24 hours.
Step 6: Grouting Joints
Now the last step is to "grout" or fill the joints and consolidate the floor. While removing
the tile spacers and spread grout on the tile surface, we use a rubber grout float or a
squeegee to force it down into the joints. Tilt the float at a 45-degree angle and with the
edge of the float, remove the excess grout from the surface immediately. Now tilt the
float at a 90-degree angle and scrape it diagonally across the tiles.
Step 7: Finishing Up
Once the grout has been set for around 15 to 20 minutes, we use a damp sponge to clean
any residue from the surface and smooth the grout joints.
Polish with a soft cloth when the grout has dried and haze forms on the tile surface, and
rinse again with sponge and clean water if necessary.
Important note: Give your newly grouted floor 72 hours before any heavy use and at
least three weeks before applying sealers or polishes.